创造一枚能历经时间考验、其功能永恒有效的时计。此一目标正是莫里茨·格罗斯曼全新PERPETUAL CALENDER腕表背后的愿景。其机械结构能永久保持正确的日期显示,即使面对不同月份长度与闰年亦然。此复杂功能被视为制表业最伟大的挑战之一,融合了精准技术与工艺大师的匠心。
为庆祝品牌重新成立 17 周年,这家来自格拉苏蒂的制表工坊呈献此令人惊叹的全新设计。自 2008 年克莉丝蒂娜·胡特 (Christine Hutter) 让历史悠久的莫里茨·格罗斯曼之名重获新生以来,该品牌始终代表着古典机械工艺、当代设计与至高制表技艺的结合。
Moritz Grossmann celebrates the 17th anniversary with a grand complication
PERPETUAL CALENDER
The perpetual calendar indicators
Traditionally, a perpetual calendar combines a variety of information on a single dial. Arranging this information in an appealing way is a challenge of its own. The Moritz Grossmann PERPETUAL CALENDAR offers a symmetrical and clear dial where all the indicators come together to form a single, harmonious picture.
Both the watch’s appearance and its legibility benefit from the way the date is presented on a ring running around the dial, with a full date scale from 1 to 31 printed on it. To distinguish the date display from the hour and minute hands and keep the face tidy and clear, there is a cup-shaped indicator on the outside that marks the current date by framing it. Another ring further in on the dial has a fine radiant cut to it that bolsters the elegant appearance.
The month and day of the week are displayed on two subsidiary dials left and right of centre, at 3 and 9 o’clock. They are decorated using a refined Azurage technique, just as the small seconds are. This technique involves a circular pattern of ultra-thin grooves which catch the light in an intriguing and appealing way. Each of these subsidiary dials has a small window at its centre. One of them serves as a leap year indicator, as the hallmark of a perpetual calendar is its knowledge of leap years and indication of the 29th of February every four years. The second small window is a day–night display which makes it easier to link the time with the date when setting the watch.
Moon phase display
The 12 o’clock position features a poetic moon phase display where a gleaming mother-of-pearl moon tracks across a dark night’s sky with small, sparkling stars. The soft glow of the moon is set against a goldstone background which is illuminated by small copper crystals. Together, it is all reminiscent of a starry night’s sky.
Convenient operation
Correctors are located on the sides of the case for all the displays on the PERPETUAL CALENDAR. Using them, the date, day of the week, month and moon phase can quickly be set and coordinated. The correctors are recessed subtly into the case and are operated with a special tool that comes with the watch.
The timepiece offers a further special feature in the form of a sum corrector. If the watch goes a few days without being wound, this pusher is all the wearer needs to revise the date since the day-of-week, month and moon phase indicators will all follow automatically.
Tech Specs
机芯
101.13 型自制机芯、手动上链、五方位调校
特点
压入式轴杆带有刀锋滚轴,冲击销位于摆陀中(格拉苏蒂样式);搭载微调螺丝的微调计调校装置;仿效莫里茨·格罗斯曼怀表历史典范的 2/3 夹板;支柱采用未经处理的德国银材质;以螺丝固定的凸出黄金套筒;拉出表冠时安全滚轴的停秒功能;透过侧方按钮解锁指针设定并启动机芯;带有 2 齿回退功能的齿轮棘轮
功能
小时与分钟显示,小秒针附停秒装置,日期、星期、月份、月相显示,格罗斯曼按钮式手动上链装置
零件
401 个(轮系系统 190 个/万年历模组 211 个)
宝石
37 颗宝石,其中 4 颗为黄金套筒,3 个以螺丝固定
擒纵系统
锚式擒纵
摆动系统
防震式轴承固定格罗斯曼摆陀,带有 4 个平头螺丝与 2 个微调螺丝,位于下部的 Nivarox 1 游丝带有 80 号末端曲线,形状源于古斯塔夫·戈斯腾柏格(Gustav Gerstenberger)
摆轮直径
14.2 毫米,振频 18,000 次/小时
动力储存
上满链 42 小时
操控零件
玫瑰金/铂金表冠,用于腕表上链与时间设定,玫瑰金/铂金机芯启动按钮,玫瑰金/铂金校正器用于设定日期、星期、月份与月相,玫瑰金/铂金快速同步校正器,用于更新日期显示
表壳尺寸
直径:41.0 毫米,厚度:13.9 毫米
机芯尺寸
直径:36.4 毫米,厚度:8.3 毫米
表壳
三件式,玫瑰金/铂金材质
表盘
银白色,银白色/炭黑色,内环圈饰以放射状纹理打磨,辅助小表盘饰以 Azurage 雕饰,时标以立体镶贴件呈现,月相显示盘为金粉流光材质,月亮以珍珠母贝制成
指针
手工制作、抛光玫瑰金,钢质,蓝色退火
表镜与透明表底
单面防反光蓝宝石水晶
表带
手工缝制鳄鱼皮表带,带有实心玫瑰金/铂金针扣