透过独立制表工坊莫里茨·格罗斯曼推出的全新腕表 UNIVERSALZEIT,佩戴者可轻松查看世界不同时区的时间,一目了然。表盘以世界地图为蓝图进行设计,透过与座标精确对齐且标有城市名称的时间窗口,提供时间与地理定位。腕表共有六个窗口,以数字 1 至 24 显示六大都会当前时间。所选城市不采用夏令或冬令时间。因此,UNIVERSALZEIT 能够全年显示当前时间,而无需进行任何调整。
UNIVERSALZEIT 的表盘作工精巧细致,提供全球各地的精准时间。海洋、各大洲、经纬度与时间窗口,结合时针、分针与秒针,为经典的优雅设计提供井然有序的清晰视野。
Seven time zones at a glance
UNIVERSALZEIT
The UNIVERSALZEIT makes it possible to see the current time in different time zones around the world at a single glance. Designed in the shape of a world map, the dial uses time windows precisely aligned with coordinates and city names as a means of providing orientation in terms of time and geography.
Times of the world at a glance
Designed in the shape of a world map, the dial uses time windows precisely aligned with coordinates and city names as a means of providing orientation in terms of time and geography. A total of six windows displays the hour from 1 to 24 in each of the six cities. Daylight-saving time is not observed in the cities selected.
The exquisitely crafted dial of the UNIVERSALZEIT indicates the time to the minute all around the globe. Featuring oceans, continents, longitude and latitude, the ensemble of time windows and the hour, minute and second hands all come together to create a well-ordered layout in a classically elegant design.
Setting the time windows and the main time via the crown at 3 o’clock
When the minute hand passes 12, the time in the time windows jumps forward by one hour.
A disc connected to a 24-tooth ratchet wheel moves beneath the dial. This is printed with a multitude of numerals from 1 to 24, each arranged at an angle of 15 degrees across a total of six rings.
When the minute hand moves over the 12, the ratchet wheel and with it the disc move forward by one position. The disc is precisely positioned by a ratchet spring. Thanks to the optimal alignment of the numerals on the disc, the hours are aligned horizontally in the windows, making it easy for the wearer to read them.
Setting the main time separately via the crown at 10 o’clock
The hour hand of the main time can be moved backwards and forwards separately in hourly increments using the quick adjustment mechanism. This does not change the time display in the windows. The mechanism allows the operator to engage the crown in two positions at 10 o’clock and then use a pusher function to correct the hour hand independently of the disc. In the middle position, a stop prevents the pusher from being operated. This prevents accidental adjustment of the time.
The Grossmann manual winder with pusher
The in-house developed manual winding mechanism with pusher contains a perfected hand setting mechanism, which eliminates two potential problem areas: avoiding the ingress of foreign particles during the adjustment process and altering the hands unintentionally when pushing the crown back into place.
After a short pull on the winding crown, the mechanism switches to hand setting and simultaneously stops the movement. The crown immediately returns to its original position, allowing the hands to be adjusted precisely. The movement is then restarted using the pusher below the winding crown without having to move the crown again. At the same time, the mechanism is reset to winding mode.
Tech Specs
机芯
100.7 型自制机芯,手动上链,五方位调校
特性
格罗斯曼摆轮;透过侧方按钮解锁指针设定并启动机芯;节省空间、经过改良的格拉苏蒂棘轮,具有回转功能;透过位于阶梯式摆轮凸轮上的格罗斯曼的微调计螺丝进行调校;导柱机芯带有未经处理的德国银材质的 2/3 夹板与支柱;摆轮与擒纵轮板带有手工镌刻;宽形横向格拉苏蒂菱纹;棘轮带有三重阶梯式太阳纹饰;可单独拆卸的离合上链装置;停秒功能,用于指针设定;中央四番轮;以螺丝固定的凸出黄金套筒;全新开发模组,用于显示所选大都会的全部时间;10 点钟位置的调校机构,佩戴者改变所在地点时可以调整时针
功能
时、分与秒显示、小秒针附停秒装置、格罗斯曼按钮式手动上链装置
零件
292
宝石
31 颗宝石,其中一颗安装在压制的黄金套筒中
擒纵系统
锚式擒纵
摆动系统
防震式轴承固定格罗斯曼摆陀,带有 4 个平头螺丝与 2 个微调螺丝,Nivarox 1 游丝带有 80 号宝玑末端曲线,形状源于古斯塔夫·戈斯腾柏格(Gustav Gerstenberger)
摆轮
直径:14.2 毫米,振频:18,000 次/小时
动力储存
上满链 42 小时
操控零件
精钢表冠,用于腕表上链与时间设定,精钢机芯启动按钮;精钢表冠,用于调校时针
表壳尺寸
直径:44.5 毫米,厚度:13.78 毫米
机芯尺寸
直径:36.4 毫米,厚度:7.45 毫米
表壳
三件式,精钢材质
表盘
实心银、镀铑倒角处理的窗口
表盘
上漆且印有图案
指针
手工制作、钢质抛光
表镜与透明表底
单面防反光蓝宝石水晶
表带
手工缝制鳄鱼皮表带,精钢针式表扣